Braise Be

  

       Serendipitously, I found a five dollar copy of All About Braising by Molly Stevens in a used bookshop in the North Country this past fall. As I've made my way through the recipes, I've been drooling in my sleep at dreams of the dinners that have resulted - the succulence that comes from the saturated flavors casts a salivating spell.

      Braising is an uncomplicated method of putting seared ingredients into a covered pot with a bit of liquid (stock or wine) and letting it cook at a low heat for a long time. You can do this atop the stove or in the oven. I believe that having a well-balanced stock is essential and yields tastes and textures so complete and harmonious that you'll widen your eyes at the simplicity of the cooking process. This includes falling-off-the-bone meat, of course, but braising vegetables is also spectacular. Cabbage, for instance, when braised in chicken stock, sea salt and black pepper becomes ribbons of savory peppered satin.

      Today's recipe is a spin off of one of Molly's whole braised chickens and uses some good winter vegetables that can get unexciting around this time of year: rutabagas, carrots and kale. As the dish cooks, the promising fragrance of the wine and fat waft through the air like an intoxicated embrace - full of promise with no tomorrow in sight.

Braised Chicken Legs in White Wine w/ Winter Vegetables

adapted from Molly Stevens

      Whole chickens are beyond my budget while legs or thighs are more affordable and full of the dark meat that gives the meat its flavor. Simply omit the chicken if you don't participate in the consumption of animals. The vegetables that are braised in this dish are not to be missed. 

Ingredients

2 T olive oil

4 chicken legs (or 8 thighs), salted lightly (on the bone and with skin is mandatory) *

another 1 T olive oil

1 onion, diced

3 carrots, thick roll cut or into bite-sized pieces (1x1)

3 small rutabagas cut into bite-sized pieces (1x1) - peel if waxed **

1/2t sea salt

3 cloves garlic, diced

1 small bunch winter kale, roughly chopped(about 4 loose cups)

1 c chicken or mushroom stock ***

1 c white wine

2 pieces lemon peel (no white pith)

3/4t sea salt, or to taste

a sprig of fresh rosemary or thyme (optional)

Process

      First, choose your pot wisely. It should be oven safe, wide enough for the vegetables to rest in a double layer, and deep enough for a lid to go on top without touching the ingredients -- a cast iron or clay dutch oven is used on this end of things. No need to stress: if your braising pot is too small, the worst thing that will happen is that the vegetables may get a bit mushy.

      Preheat your oven to 300F.

Browning the Chicken

      Over a medium-high flame, add the oil in your braising pot. When hot, place the chicken face down in the oil and let brown for about four minutes. Flip with a fork to let the other sides brown, shaking the pot now and then to make sure the skin doesn't stick. Remove from the pot and set aside.

Browning the Vegetables

      Add the remaining oil to the chicken fat in the pot. When hot, stir in the onions, carrots and rutabagas with a 1/2 t of salt. Let brown for four minutes, undisturbed, like you did with the chicken. Do in batches, if necessary. Add a splash of water (or preferably extra stock) if the vegetables are sticking.

      Add the garlic and kale, stirring to incorporate with the other vegetables. Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a simmer, reduce the heat to maintain it, for 5 minutes (to get the wine to calm down). Taste for salt.

The Braise

     Nestle the chicken into the vegetables, cover with a tight-fitting lid, and put into the preheated oven. Check now and again to ensure that the braising liquid is simmering mildly, spooning the liquid atop the chicken (or basting). If it ever appears that you are running out of liquid too quickly, simply add more stock - 1/2 cup at a time.

      After about an hour and a half, the chicken will be hanging from the bone and the vegetables will be penetrable with a knife or fork. There should be some braising liquid left over to spoon over the meal at the end.

      Serve in a bowl with a piece of crusty bread or next to some brown rice with toasted pecans.

Yields: 4 bowls of eye-widening glory (great leftovers, too)

Prep time: 30 minutes (if you're being luxurious)

Cook time: an hour and a half

* Chicken is warming and thermal in nature.

** Potatoes can be substituted if you desire but I don't encourage it if rutabagas are available as they impart a wonderful sweetness.

*** To make an easy mushroom stock: simmer 2 cups of water, a few dried mushrooms (shiitake or porchini), a smashed clove of garlic and the trimmings of an onion with 1/2 t salt for 20 minutes. Drain stock ingredients before use.

Pictures by Amy Pennington/Styling by Adria Lee