I talk to vegetables, my constant companions. Usually they are words of appreciation - that the squash is a sweetheart or the onion is a real layered lady. Peppers however, I have little patience for; they can be such bullies - vexations to the palate! If a pepper is in a dish, it is the first and last thing that I taste. It's all elbows; jabbing at the other flavors and insisting on attention. Rarely do I use them in my cooking at home.
The one exception is a jalapeno pepper, perhaps because a little bit goes such a long way.The membrane around the seeds and the area just beneath the stem (the placenta) are the sources of a jalapeno's spiciness*. De-seeding/stemming is a good idea when using a raw jalapeno so that the heat remains civilized - like in a salsa fresca or guacamole. But be careful when handling them - I've watched a rash spread across my fingers when I've been careless.
Today's recipe calls for roasting the peppers which will give a sweet depth to the otherwise bright bell-pepper foundation of the jalapeno. The interplay between the garlic, oil and roasted pepper makes for a playful sensation in the mouth that is nuanced in flavor. Farmers market displays are cascading with varying shades of jalapenos, so now is the perfect time for this recipe - keep in mind that different crops yield varying levels of spice so be patient and flexible with these feisty fellows.
Roasted Jalapeno Oil
Preheat oven to 400F.
Ingredients
2 whole jalapeno peppers
2 whole cloves of garlic, unpeeled
2 cup good olive oil
Process
Process
Drizzle the jalapenos and garlic cloves with a few drops of olive oil, wrap tightly in foil and place in the oven. Roast for 30 minutes, or until soft. Open the foil to expose the peppers and garlic to the heat so that they will begin to brown/blacken, another 15 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool.
Once the peppers and garlic are cool enough to touch, chop or blend quickly in a food processor. You want to make some surface area to the flavor infusion in the next step.
In a heavy bottomed sauce pan (I did it in a deep cast iron skillet), combine the roasted items and the remaining olive oil and heat on low for 45 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool.
Drain the oil through a fine-mesh strainer (save the crisped pepper and garlic for future garnishes) and taste a few drops. If the infused-oil is too spicy, simply add more olive oil. Enjoy on popcorn, roasted squash, or as a great finish for a bowl of soup.
* The spice in a jalapeno comes from a compound called capsaicin and is a natural anti-inflammatory.
Yields: 2 cups of oil. Will keep for a month.
Prep time: 5 minutes.
Cook time: 2 hours, mostly unattended.
