Sunday, February 22, 2015

Austere But Impressionable

 
 
      There's a civility to cauliflower that I've only begun to appreciate. It stands proud and stout in a garden and precious in its austere but impressionable pale ivory. Like the tight layers of its relative cabbage, the florets of cauliflower seem steadfastly bound to each other, which is the certain sign that the head is a healthy and young one (older ones crumble easily and have a grainy quality once in the mouth). Its smooth flavor beckons a sharp cheddar or vibrant Indian spices like curry and garam masala in a buttermilk sauce with currants. Some even chop up raw cauliflower and call it "rice", which I find difficult to swallow as a concept but respect the attempt.

      But as a centerpiece? Oh, yes! I implore you. Boiled whole in a wine broth spiked with chili flakes and then roasted in a hot oven until crackly and charred, this dish will take you to a new place and surely impress any dinner guest.

Whole Roasted Cauliflower with Spiced Goat Cheese
 by and adapted from Alon Shaya

      I have also broken the florets into uniformed large, bite sized pieces which makes for a less visually impressive dish but an easier one to handle -- the cooking time will lessen, so just keep an alert eye out.

Ingredients

For the cauliflower and broth
 
1 whole cauliflower, leaves and stem trimmed and discarded

3 c dry white wine
6 c water
1/4 c olive oil
1/4 c salt
1 T sugar/maple syrup/honey
3 T fresh lemon juice
1 T butter (or vegan alternative)
1 T dried chili flakes
1 bay leaf

For the goat cheese

4 oz soft goat cheese/chevre (or toasted, chopped walnuts)
a couple tablespoons of yogurt or buttermilk to thin the sauce
one clove of garlic, crushed and minced
a few pinches chili flakes
1/4 t sea salt
generous amount of freshly cracked black pepper

fresh basil, dill, cilantro, parsley or sorrel, chopped for garnish (optional) 

Process

      Preheat the oven to 475F.

      Mix the chevre, yogurt/buttermilk, garlic, chili flakes, 1/4 sea salt and black pepper in a bowl and let sit.


      Bring the wine, water, olive oil, salt, sweetener, lemon juice, butter, chili flakes and bay leaf to a hearty boil. Reduce the heat to medium low and carefully, with two slotted spoons, lower the cauliflower into the broth. Let simmer until the cauliflower is slightly tender to an inserted knife but not at all falling apart -- about 10 to 15 minutes.
  
      Carefully pour the broth through a mesh strainer and place the cauliflower in a roasting pan or skillet. Roast in the oven until the outside of the cauliflower has begun to brown and blacken -- 30 to 40 minutes.

      Remove from oven, sprinkle with sea salt, top with goat cheese and garnish with fresh herbs. Serve with a sharp knife and pie server.

Yields: a main or side dish for 4
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 45 minutes

Writing by Adria Lee | Photography by Amy Pennington

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